Between the last post and this one, I had an unfortunate encounter with someone cycling where they shouldn’t have been (no, the irony is not lost on me either), resulting in a broken rib and quite a lot of pain whenever I tried to pick up my sewing machine. This is why I have only just finished mum’s Christmas present. Sorry mum.
It’s based on one on Princesspea’s site but Princesspea seems to have vanished off the internet, and also mine has some significant differences so I’m not in any danger of infringing copyright.
I cut all my pattern pieces out of dressmakers’ squared paper first, so, you will need three pattern pieces:
Main pattern piece: 77cm by 50cm
Pocket pattern piece: 36 cm by 18cm
Buttonhole pattern piece: 15cm by 6cm
For the fabric, you will need:
Outer fabric: I used denim, in a dark blue, washed and ironed first.
Lining fabric: I used plain pale cream cotton poplin.
Pocket fabric: I used Liberty lawn in Mauverine, but not in that colourway, the one I used was green and purples.
You will also need
Iron-in or sew-in fleece
Using the main pattern piece, cut 1 each from the lining fabric, the sew-in or iron in fleece, and the outer fabric.
Using the pocket pattern piece, cut eight pocket pieces from the pocket fabric.
Using the button fastener pattern piece, cut two fastener pieces from the outer fabric.
If you’re using something less substantial than denim for the outer fabric and button loops, you may want to interface them.
Sew the fleece to the wrong side of the outer fabric. If using fusible fleece, follow the manufacturer’s instructions, if using sew-in fleece, use a 1/4″ seam allowance.
For each of the pocket pieces:
1) make a hem along one long side by turning over 1.5cm, pressing, turning over another 1.5cm. Press and sew. This will be the top edge, so watch the direction if you’re using a directional print.
2) Press a 1cm hem into each short edge of each strip, but do not sew.
3) Press a 1.5cm hem into the bottom edge of each strip, but do not sew.
You should end up with eight pieces which look like this:
Position one pocket so one short edge is 4cm in from the short edge of the lining fabric and the ironed hemline of the bottom long edge is 4cm in from the long edge of the lining fabric.
Join the pocket to the lining fabric by sewing along the ironed hemline on the bottom of the pocket.
Position another pocket so it is underneath and 2.5cm higher than the first pocket. Join to the lining fabric as above.
Repeat this for the remaining six pocket pieces, so you end up with one set of double-layered pockets in each corner of the lining fabric.
The tops of all the pockets should face towards the centre of the lining fabric.
Pin and sew the short edges of the pockets to the lining fabric. Measure and mark to divide each pocket into three, and sew down the marking line. Sew from the bottom of each pocket to the top, to prevent the fabric buckling.
Fold the lining piece with the attached pockets into four. Mark the centre of one long raw-edge side of one of the quarters, and the same on the short raw-edge side.
To make the button loop, fold it in half lengthwise and press, then fold the outer edges into the crease and press it flat again. Fold along the first crease and iron flat once more. Sew the open edge closed, with approximately 1/8″ seam allowance.
On the left is after pressing but before sewing, on the right is after sewing.
Pin one of the loops at the centre point marked on the long edge, and one at the centre point on the short edge of the pocket fabric, with the raw fabric edges all lined up together and the loop to the right side of the pocket fabric.
With right sides together, sew the lining fabric to the outer fabric, leaving a 6” gap to turn it right side out. Clip the corners, and turn it right side out, pushing the corners out with a point turner. Press thoroughly. Pin the gap closed, then top-stitch all round the edge.
Fold into quarters, mark the button positions, unfold and sew on the buttons.